OMB and my last bike ride was the year that he turned 90.
It was with eagerness that I took to the road the Thursday before the 'Baja 1000'. I'd loaded up my DR350 with a minimalist's supply of camp gear, and left Oceanside for the 4 hour ride to Baja's outback where I'd watch the racers go by.
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Being alone on this ride would give me a chance to say goodbye to Bud in the land that he so loved. So it was with a somber heart that I went out to the bike and hit the starter for the trip.
I got about 3 good cranks before the battery failed. Crap, what a way to start a trip. The bike had set since my last ride of the Continental Divide Trail more than a year ago. I keep a Harbor Freight solar charger on it, but a week ago when I looked the connection to that charger had failed, and the battery was completely dead,.... and we all know that's not good for a battery.
So I'd charged the battery and got the bike running last week, and ridden it around town a couple days. The battery seemed fine, but apparently, it wasn't fine, but I figured that if I jump started the bike, and rode it to Mexico the battery would charge up, and I'd get by....so that's what I did.
With a happy heart and a large dose of optimism, I left the house at about 9am. I'd needed to gas up soon, and that would be a good test of the restart ability of the bike not too far from home. At 17 miles I stopped for gas, and the bike started up when I was finished, I was encouraged to go ahead with the trip. :clap
There's not much to tell about the 70 mile ride to Tecate except that the day bordered on being too hot at 85°, and the 25 twistie miles of hwy 94 to the border is always enjoyable.
Oh,....on the section of 94 there was some construction with a traffic tie-up, and I was at the back of a couple hundred yards of stopped traffic. I went up the shoulder to the front of the line. I sure didn't want to be behind all that traffic when we got the go signal.
At the front, I pulled alongside of a pair of prerun trucks, and since we were waiting, I asked where they were going. I found out they were going my way....then traffic cut loose, and I was gone, only behind one slow SUV...that's better. Once I got past Mrs.SUV it was clear sailing for the best part of the road. I was enjoying myself now, well, who am I kidding,.... all morning really.
I made the obligatory gas stop on the US side of the border. There were 2 KLR riders inside the convenience store doing some last minute purchases. Of course, I can't remember their names, but they were also going to watch the race on a weekend ride. One of them was from the South Rim area of the Grand Canyon, and he had to be at work on Monday so they were making a quick trip.
I asked them where they were going to watch, and they told me Ojos Negros (about 25 east of the race start in Ensenada). They said they were going to go there on a dirt road from Guadalupe. Hummmm, I thought. The last time I was on that road was some 15 years ago and it was kinda a tough road and little known.
So I offered to show them the route from Tecate down the Condor trail past Rancho Veronica. No, they wanted to do the Guadalupe route. It's always a good idea to stick with your original plan. Hell, for all I knew maybe they had put a much better road in to there from Ojos. If anyone knows about this road from recent experience I'd like to hear from you.
I crossed the border....usually you go straight for about 5 blocks and turn left on the main road in town and head toward Mexicali. Well, now you go 1 block and there's a sign board arrow that says Mexicali left turn, so I did that. Luckily this isn't a very complicated street area, because that was the last arrow I saw about how to get further to the main road east out of town. Gotta love the Mexican way of doing things.
It's 17 miles to the Rancho Veronica turn off past some nice scenery...
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I took the free road as the toll road is way too expensive for my blood, and the free road is more interesting anyway, and traffic isn't bad. There used to be a huge Rancho Veronica sign at the turnoff, but now there's only a small sign among many...kinda hard to Pick out the RV sign. Here's a photo of the turn off.
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Finally, I was off the pavement. I'd stopped and visited a friend in San Diego on the way, so it was about 12:30pm by now, and this road was about 60 miles long. I might average 30 mph, but with stops it could take me 3 hours to make the junction of the road to Laguna Hansen. I headed into the sparsely populated Baja. I've always liked this area, but the road system is changing all the time. I see a lot more signs on the way south.
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I'll talk about my beloved DR350. I got it around the turn of the century maybe, 97 or 98. It had 3000 miles on it (got close to 50000 now). I'd just finished a run with XR Hondas, and the DR had an electric start...that's about all I knew about the bike.
After destroying my right knee kick-starting my recalcitrant XR600 one morning. My knee wasn't right for a year. I decided to go with an electric start bike as soon as I could.
Anyway, the DR has been so reliable. It's still on the same sparkplug. The only thing that has gone wrong with it is a couple electrical problems that were caused by the salt that I've gotten into on the beach, and again at the Bonneville Salt flats a couple times.
It's all about reliability with me. At 70+ years I don't run the bike hard. All I ask is that it will start and run 60mph on the street.
I've been experimenting with running the poor mans tubeless tire set up, and after a couple year, have decided that that's the way to go for me. I carry a tube with me for emergencies, but have yet to need it...or for that matter, I can't remember a flat that I've had where I couldn't have fixed it with a tubeless plug if I'd been running tubeless.
This trip I'm carrying a sleeping bag in the right webbed carrier, and I have an inner tube, 1/2 gallon of water, cook stove, electric shirt, air pump, and Ramen noodles in the left webbing. Maps and flashlight go in the tank Panniers. I have 2 PVC tool holders inside the rear rack, and I carry a empty back pack and gas can, If I should need them for anything.
...... Forgot, and I have a 1 man tent and a blue tarp for emergencies as well.....
The above should keep me out of trouble in most situations. It's important to stay as light as you can....and to keep the weight down low. This trip is the lightest that I've traveled, and there was one time that I thought I was going to drop it in a turn-around maneuver while in some whoops, but being so light I was able to hold the bike up till I got sorted out. Back to the report.....
..... so I left off starting down the Condor Trail toward Ojos Negros. I always stop at this well kept, little marble orchard. It so invites a couple photos....wait, I hear engines.
Here come the 2 prerunners that I'd stopped beside at the road construction back on hwy 94. Snap, snap, went the camera.
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They were traveling a good bit faster than I was, but the 'Tortoise and the Hare' story comes into play, as I passed them a couple more times in the next 30 miles while they were looking over their trucks.
The second time I found them stopped, I stopped as well to take a break, and see what these trucks were made of. Off roading and the prep that can be done to a truck is limitless. It can be expensive but limitless.
...there they go again...
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.....off into the distance.....see those 2 dust clouds way out there?
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Here are the prerun perps in person. Do you think that there are a couple brothers on the left?
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That's ADVrider 'Slappy' in the middle. He rides KTMs in the moto world, and is in the process of converting his truck now into a serious off road truck.
He just put the tubing framework in his truck bed for the shock system back there, and was here testing his design out. That was the reason for so many stops.
The black truck was finished, and is a few years old. A few years is a lifetime for off road trucks, although this one was still performing well. Here's some of the work that goes into a prerunner.
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Further down the road there is some pine tree country, although the center of the piney tree mtns is 20 miles off to the east in the Laguna Hansen area.
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I caught them again at a serine little water crossing later.
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By the time that I hit the Laguna Hansen road (at 'C') it was 3pm. I was going to ride that road east for 15 miles and watch the race from there as well as spend the night. But after a few miles in that direction (at 'E') I couldn't see any signs of pre-running so they must be running a different route this year.
I'm a little embarrassed that I didn't have a race map with me. I made an assumption that wasn't the case, so I had to make a new plan. I decided to ride down to Mex hwy 3 (at 'F') and pick up the race where it crossed hwy 3. Here's a map of my first days ride starting in Tecate. http://goo.gl/maps/ZgMPk
But in picture form of where I was having to make this decision, this is it, with Ojos Negros being 10 miles off to the left of 'C'
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...and here's a rough picture of where the race course went in Black. I never saw that first road crossing just east of 'F', so I continued on to Valle De Trinidad (at 'G'), and gassed up. I headed on out to find the next road crossing way out there on the right near the San Felipe road.
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I never got that far before I ran out of Daylight, So I camped at 'I' along side of the road some 50 yards south of the road. I started a fire and threw my sleeping bag on the ground, and settled in for the night. It get's dead dark at 5pm so it was going to be a long night.
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The Morning Fireworks Show
This year we have a new race organizer who has made some racing structure changes. One being that the motorcycles and quads were going to start tonight at 11pm so that there would be a lot of hours between the bikes and the cars which start the next morning at 9am.
So I didn't feel bad about not finding the race course tonight, because I wouldn't likely to have been up when the bikes started to come thru at 3am. I also wasn't going to wait at this next road crossing for the cars to come thru at 3 or 4 pm. this new race arrangement made actually spectating the event a bit of a PIA.
None of that mattered to me as I was here to enjoy getting away and being in Baja for a few days. To me the clear/clean air, the bright moon and stars, and a camp fire were what it was all about.
New equipment for me this trip was a cheap AM radio. Listening to the 'skip' was a big help to while the hours away during the night. I also wondered if Old Man Bud knew what I was up to. In another time, Bud would have been here with me sleeping on the sand.
The night went well. I woke a few time. It gave me time to wonder if the bike would start when it was time to go. The engine started easily all day yesterday, but would it when it was dead cold from an overnight at 50°?
I'd been asleep on and off since 7pm, by 4am I was ready to ride. At least I was mostly awake, maybe snoozing a little waiting for light. Clouds had come in around 1am. It takes clouds to make a beautiful sunrise.
As the sun comes up the sun has to be able to shine on the undersides of the clouds. When it began to get light there was a bit of color, but the clouds seemed too low to let much sun in underneath.
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I started a fire to cut the cold while I waited for more light. I kept an eye on the sky. It doesn't take much to miss the pinnacle of a sunrise. The sky looked kinda fierce and extremely dark. The sunrise was likely to be a bust or something spectacular. It was building....
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I boiled myself up some coffee with my homade alcohol stove. Then I turned around and saw this.... some things money can't buy.
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That color didn't last more than 30 seconds before it began to fade. I watched till it was gone, then went about packing up for the day's ride.
See that clear sky between the mtn and the clouds on the right? That's pointing south. It would follow me.
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You get yet another scene as the sunrise fades.
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The fireworks were over, so as soon as I finished my coffee It was time for the moment of truth. The engine lit up right away with very little grinding. It was time to ride.
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Continuing on to Friday
I began Friday by travelling east still looking for where the race crossed HWY 3. It turned out to be only a few miles from the road to the San Felipe (HWY 5). Here's the scene looking west from just south of HWY 3.
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I pulled off the road and spotted some gringos nearby, so I walked over with hope of getting some scuttlebutt about what had happened so far.
These guys were great...
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That's Trevor on the right and Jeff in the middle. Sorry, but I can't remember the guys name on the left except he has a Small KTM bike shop/dealership in Oregon.
Anyway, Trevor and Jeff had run a 450cc Honda off the starting line, and then Jeff took over and ran the second section. Jeff handed the bike off to a third rider who handed the bike off to a fourth rider to do the Laguna Salada run down to this road crossing.
All had been going as it was planned back in Oregon until the Laguna Salada dry lake piece. First it was an odd noise and then the engine seized tighter than a nun's knickers. Just like that, in an eye's blink, their race was over.
They'd gotten word just a few minutes before I got there. They'd had enough time to regain their composure, but it was clear that their heart's had taken a big hit.
In the old days of the 60s and 70s they'd have had to wait for hours till a rider came in with a 'Stuck Stub'. A tablet and pencil was issued to every driver so that you could write a message and give it to a passing racer, and hope that they would remember to hand it off at a checkpoint. That was how communications were handled back then.
.....but today the stricken rider got out his I-tablet, and communicated his situation to the team folks via satellite back in Oregon, and then that was passed to all the pit crews wherever they were in Baja. Probably took all of 5 minute to decide where they were exactly, and get a nearby pit crew underway for the rescue. Ah,.....it's a wonderful world that we live in.
I bullshited with the boys for a half hour or so. I could see in that short time their moods went from despair to what they could do better next time. I predict a bright racing future for these guys.
While I was there, a few bikes came thru. Anyone coming thru there now was at least a couple hour off their proper times. The first bikes came thru at around 3am. This was not much of a spectator spot, so I decided to move on down the road.
Old Man Buds 3 boys were going to be down south of San Felipe about 30 miles where they have beach houses. They usually have a big group that go out to the race course nearby and party while the race passes by. I decided to go there. It was only about 65 miles away.
On the way south to SF... Notice that slash of clear sky just over the mtns. It had gotten ahead of me in a southern direction as the clouds moved east.
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I gassed up in SF. I have a nearly 200 mile range, but it's a good idea to get gas when it's available. I continued south along the beach....some of the shrimp fleet was anchored off shore.
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These are working boats, and have passed the tests of time.
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I chased that slash of clear sky south, and I was gaining on it.
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I stopped at the boy's beach houses, and their plans to watch the race weren't going to materialize till 2 or 3 that afternoon, so I decided to go have breakfast at the one of the several cafes that have popped up there across from Campo Virgel.
While I ate I developed a new plan. Instead of waiting till the 4 wheeler came thru here at 3pm, I'd ride back to Valle De Trinidad and catch the first bike coming back thru on the way to Ensenada. They were due in there around 2 to 3 pm.
A headwind had been picking up as I rode south, but now I was reaping the benefit as I went back north along the Mtn.
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There's the fishing fleet again as I approach San Felipe harbor.
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I blasted thru town and back toward VT. That's Diablo Dry Lake out there showing some dust from traffic. Races have often gone across there at speeds reported to be 130mph, but not this time.
Those Mtn peaks are at 10000+ ft and the dry lake is at 50 ft so that's one of the worlds tallest rises from the base around it. The Mexican Observatory is on one of them.
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I'm approaching San Matias pass at H on the map. There's 5 miles of great twisties there, but today there was a wind from the west really gusting thru the pass. It made riding not so Good.
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I had almost no traffic going my way, but I'd never seen so much traffic going east, as all the spectators and pit vehicles scramble to get where they wanted to be.....and as you might suspect, under these conditions, everybody is a racer. Caution is the word of the day.
I pulled into VT for gas. The gas station was lined up many cars deep, but there were 3 motos getting fuel on one side of the pump. I pulled into that group looking like I belonged with them, and got my gas without a bunch of waiting. :clap
Those three bikes had an interesting story. I asked them where they were headed, thinking they were here to watch the race. Nope the race was a lucky happenstance to them. they were on their way to Cabo and had 2 or 3 weeks or....to get to know the Baja way.
We all pulled over to the event taco stand for a BS session.
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[left to right] Andy, Tyler, and Matt........We talked maps and how they had come to find themselves in this situation.
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Tyler and Matt had a fast food fish place up north, Seattle...they'd started out together in a catering truck, and now had the fish place. Tyler had been a chef at nice restaurants, and now was having the time of his life in the less posh food business.
Andy had an interesting story as well. He was a union organizer currently dealing with the under represented nurses situation. He had also decided to come on this trip with the boys instead of taking a vacation with his girl friend. We all got a chuckle out of that for the rest of our time together. :freaky
They wanted to go to Mikes Sky Ranch to see Mike's and watch the race, but were nervous about going backwards on the course, and wondered if I knew the way in from the Simpsons Ranch side. So I told them what I knew about my trip thru there 20 years ago. Who knows what that roads like now.
In no time at all, Matt had an internet map of that route on his touch phone. I don't know how they do that. It's that 'wonderful world' thing again, I reckon.
The boys had done a lot of googling on the net, and had heard about the cliff road north out of VT. They wanted to see that, so I offered to show them where it was and lead them up it.
I've been up it many times, but the last time was maybe the late '70. It was a good deal rougher than I'd remembered. It's only a 1/2 mile long, and when we got near the top I found a wide spot in the road to tell them that that was all there was.
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It was about 12:30 now. The boys walked some of the course, and climbs boulder, while deciding what to do next.
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I new that I'd found my place to watch the race, and spend the night. The boy didn't want to abandon me, but I knew this was going to be much more boring than a ride up to Mike's Sky Ranch, so I told them as much, and they took off for Mikes. Three nice guys. I enjoyed my time with them.
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I set up camp and made myself some afternoon coffee...it was prolly 1:30 now.
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At 2:35 the first bike came thru. It was the team of, now decease, Kurt Caselli that had the lead by only a couple minutes over Udahl's team. The next bike didn't come thru until 2 hrs later. There were only 5 bike that came thru in the daylight, and maybe a total of 10 by the time that I went to bed at 7pm. I couldn't wait for the lead Trophy Trucks to come thru at midnight. Here's a corny little video that I put together of my spectating that night and the next morning. I can't embed it so you'll have to click the https://picasaweb.google.com/105133432232392762779/1Baja2013#5947396423638614274
The ride Home ......Ok, I need to wrap this report up.
The boys had left and I was at a place of peace and solitude waiting the arrival of bikes and eventually cars that would have been racing for at least 14 hr and 700 miles. It didn't figure that there would be a pack of vehicles in a short period of time. The action was most likely to be slow.
I'm pretty good with my own thoughts at times like these. It gives me a chance to solve many of the world's problems. :freaky
It was colder today than last night as I was 2000 ft higher, and that by itself accounts for 3.5° per 1000ft, plus a cooler wind had come in from the northwest which accounted for another 10°.
The first 2 bikes came thru at 2:35 separated by only a couple minutes. First a KTM
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... Then a Honda
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....2 hours later a Kawasaki....
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It was time for a fire. The boys had helped me gather some firewood before they opted to go to Mike's so it didn't take long to get a fire going up in the rocks, from where I took this picture, so I could watch the action. It was rough as a bitch down there on the road.
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Ah,....There that's better. :clap
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As the day turned to night, I reflected about the important things in life. A simple campfire....you can't hardly get away with making a campfire these days to stay warm by in the US. Baja is one of the last frontiers.
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The action (I exaggerate) had slowed down, and you can't see much once it's dark, so I moved from my rock back to camp and boiled up dinner, Ramen and canned chicken. Camp cooking is the best.
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Earlier I decided that I needed a chair for a proper campsite, so I move a rock by rolling it across the road from those bushes on the right (It was the closest rock)....to where it is next to the fire. That SOB must of weighed 300lbs. It was all I could do to get it up the berm on the left of the road.
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Then the rock needed a proper top cap....and I'd be ready. My dual sport touring seat doubled here as the 'coup de resistance' top cap.
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I was setup for the night.
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Another good night was had as I listened to 'Coast to Coast' on the radio when I'd wake during the night. I woke briefly every time a vehicle came thru. I sleep good though, so the racers didn't bother me much, hell, it was usually time to turn over anyway. :wink:
...I was up at first light. I had just enough water for my morning coffee. I watched some more racers come by. The average interval was probably 15 minutes. A covey of quail crossed the road not far from me, and went up on the hill behind me. I could hear their calls. Only this one seemed to want to watch the race.
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A pool of water from due got my ass wet when I sat down next to the morning fire.
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I watched a few more cars come thru. There probably hadn't been 30 cars and bikes total past me so far. This was slow action even for me. :rofl
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As I watched I made a corporate decision. There was possible light rain in the forecast, it was a bit cold, and the sun didn't look like it was coming out. I'd had my Baja fix, my date with nostalgia. I decided to go home. I packed up camp and hit the road.
Well, all except that the bike wouldn't start. Yesterday when I'd gassed up in VT I hadn't turned the IG switch completely off for a minute or so before one of the boys told me. Then I started it down there which used more battery (even though it started), and the run up to camp last night was a slow rpm hill climb that didn't do much charging. Luckily there was a hill of sandstone rock for good bump start traction.
....a road crossing just north of Independencia....
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I figured to go almost back the way that I came, but this time thru Laguna Hansen and out to HWY 2 at La Rumorosa.
..... as I road west I thought about the higher altitude (colder) at Laguna Hansen. I had my electric shirt, but with the battery issue, I didn't like that idea. So I eventually just decided to bomb on back thru Ensenada and up the toll road to San Diego. I cleared Ensenada, and as I approached the first toll booth, I saw backed up traffic just beyond it. I didn't want to get into some traffic jam so I made a quick decision to U-turn across 3 lanes of traffic and go back south to take the free road thru La Mision.
so that's what I did. From the overpass on that free road I could see that the traffic tie up was just a few cars backed up at a drug checkpoint just north of the toll booths. I was committed now so it was La Mision for me.
I saved a couple of bucks and had to do 7 more miles than the toll road. Damn, no one told me about the 5 miles of construction with flag men and stopped traffic. All and all I probably lost a half hour with that panicked decision. Oh well, what you going to do? In Baja, anythings possible.
I'd been noticing a lot of decel popping from my exhaust, and it seemed to have gotten worse in some of that construction, so while stopped at a flagman, I took a good look down. Seemed like there was a crack in my header pipe just before it went into the muffler. It didn't look bad.
I expected some header problem some day as I'd been on the beach some and to the Bonneville Salt Flats a couple times. the header pipe and that clamp showed bad signs of rust. Oh, Well, I though again. I'll have to do something about that. I even bought another header pipe off Ebay a year ago or so. It'll be a simple swap.
...further up the road around Rosarito the muffler back firing got 10 times louder....WTF? I knew there was a bigger exhaust leak so I stopped to make sure the exhaust wasn't burning something.
I couldn't believe it, the whole header pipe was gone. It didn't touch my leg or I didn't hear it hit the road or anything. The good news was that the exhaust straight out of the head wasn't hitting anything. It was time to test out the old wives tail about warping valves if you don't have an exhaust pipe. I continued on.
I haven't been north thru TJ for quite a few years. I usually do the Otay Mesa crossing, but it's gotten more complicated these days so I opted for TJ this time.
Speaking of going to TJ, just south of the Rosarita toll booth there is a side road toll booth to a road that goes northeast and a sign that said Tijuana. Does anyone know where that goes???
Anyway after the last toll booth, I went along the border fence toward the border crossing following the signs that said San Diego. I did the winding around and over roads right near the border and then I didn't see anymore San Diego signs.
Now I was seeing 'return to TJ central' signs. It was an all new WTF moment. It took me a few blocks in order to get redirected back toward the border for a second try. This time I got to the line of traffic that is at the border.
I began snaking my way between cars and vendor carts. Soon A couple vendor guys showed me where I could go up the side to the front of the line. Cool.
I got to the gate guard and he enters my license plate. The bike's registered to me and has been for the last 15 years. He says, "Is this your motorcycle?" I said 'yes'. 15 more seconds go by while he's watching his 'puter. He asks me again if the bike's mine. Now I'm thinking maybe the bike registered in my wife's name. He finally take my passport that I'm trying to hand him. He looks at it and then sends me on my way. I got all nervous for nothing. Maybe I'm getting too old for this. :freaky:freaky
Sixty more mile of an open header run up I-5 had me at my doorstep in Oceanside by 1PM. I survived the 'Jaws of Death' in Baja one more time.
.....and that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
